Vintage Simplicity 2577
When I saw this pattern I knew I had to have it. I immediately fell in love with the packet illustration of the draped back of this dress.
I knew this needed just the right fabric, because that softly pleated back has to hang just right. I wanted something that felt of the era (about 1957-1959). In my research I fell in love with silk noil. There is just one issue, the price. Silk noil, being silk, is rather too expensive for me on a pattern that I have never made before. But I was lucky enough to find the Viscose Linen Noil over at Blackbird Fabrics. This beautiful fabric, sews like a cotton, has the breathability of linen, and the slightly nubby texture of a silk noil. It is also a good bit less expensive than the silk.
When I started sewing I found the construction of this dress unusual. In my experience it is fairly common for me to come across something I’ve not seen before in each vintage pattern. For this dress it is a panel inserted in the back of the dress, attached at the shoulder seams and waist seam, but open at the sides. I couldn’t quite see what this panel was for. Why bother? Why not just let the fabric blouse away from the body at the back?
After wearing the dress the need for this panel is abundantly clear. First of all having the panel that rests flat against your back like any regular sheath dress is extremely comfortable. Second, the bloused fabric in the back is heavy, and the panel keeps the dress in place without the extra weight of that back fabric pulling the dress off your shoulders.
Another reason for loving this pattern is the dolman sleeves. Dolman sleeves are wonderful for range of movement, they are much less restricting than a traditional set in sleeve. And for me personally I have a few fit issues with set in sleeves because I have large upper arms. This always requires me to fiddle with the width and sleeve cap which can be frustrating. These particular sleeves have one of my favorite vintage details; elbow darts. These darts allows for the natural curve of the arm, when relaxed, and doesn’t break the lines of the garment.
This dress should have a belt and little bow that ties under the collar, but I didn’t have the right webbing for the belt and have left them off for now. I have the fabric ready, and it will match the blue covered buttons on the pleat of the skirt. But, since the dress works without them, i’m not in a rush.
