Elaine Pants: Colette Patterns

This week I made the Elaine pants from Colette Patterns. The thing that I love about this pattern is the details. The little notch in the back waist and the clever little button flaps on the back pockets really elevate these trousers into something special.

I had a bit of difficulty in fitting these, but I don’t think it is a fault in the pattern. I have only just begun really learning how to fit pants and what the best ways to alter the pattern to my body. I am a 34 - 29 - 42. This generally means that in pants I am grading up about 2 sizes from waist to hips. But in addition my inches are not spread evenly across my front and back. I have a large rear that sits low on my body, so the adjustments have to be made about 1/3 to the front and 2/3 to the back.

One of the most difficult things I needed to figure out was when to scoop the front and back crotch lines and when to extend the point. I found the most helpful resource to be from MellySews.com. Her simple explanations and more importantly easy to understand photos and diagrams really helped. These may be some simplistic ways of looking at fitting, when I have looked at books and other sites slashing and spreading, but it helped me understand where my major issues were coming from.

So I spent a couple of weeks and about 4.5 toiles working on the fit. But I got it to a point where I am happy with them. (Apologies for the dog hair in all of the photos, but as any of you out there with pets know, this is a losing battle and it is always there.)

Now, after my husband took these photos for me so I could show off and join in on #sewfancypants on instagram before the month ran out, I noticed a little wrinkle forming at the front seam where the facing is attached. The material is a wool gabardine from mood fabrics with a fair amount of stretch and drape to it. Instead of using traditional interfacing I used powermesh to help keep the waist feeling comfortable. But that meant that the structure is a little lacking. So to fix the wrinkle I ran a little seam down the front crotch seam the length of the facing. That way it won’t pull from just one small point and keeps the front flat as it should be.

This shows the little seam I ran down the front. You can’t see it from the outside as it was stitched right over the existing seam.

Overall I love my new pants. I would definitely recommend the pattern and will attempt another version out of a different type of fabric, I’m thinking a floral cotton sateen. The black just doesn’t do justice to all of the lovely details, though they will be a welcome addition to the basics I am attempting to add to my closet. With these pants I am at 3/15 for my capsule collection, hooray! I’m on track to actually finish on time. It’s just the beginning, but it does feel good.